Simple Sewing Machine for Kids

Janome 11542

Well, here it is - a simple sewing machine for kids! This little beauty is a refurbished Janome 11542, recommended by Crafty Gemini in response to my Perfect Sewing Machine for Kids? post. It rates 4.5 based on nearly two dozen reviews at Overstock.com, and cost less than $65 with shipping. After reading the reviews and researching my other options, I chose this machine for my granddaughter’s 10th birthday based on features, weight and price.


My list of wants included:

• Drop-in bobbin
• Zigzag
• Convenient reverse
• Easy to thread
• Durable

Nice features that weren’t on my list:

• 4-step button hole
• Free arm (just remove the accessory storage)

I haven’t yet tested the machine enough to vouch for long-term durability but it sure meets my other criteria. Although weight didn’t make my original list, I realized that having a machine she could lift would be a plus and am happy to report that this one weighs in at about 11 pounds. Considering her new baby sister now weighs more than that and she packs her around every chance she gets, I think she’ll easily handle moving the sewing machine around.



Test stitches - Janome 11542

 But How Well Does it Sew?

I tested the stitches and played with the tension, using yellow on the top and black in the bobbin so that problems would be easier to spot. The tension dial came pre-set at five, which was fine for most stitches. In fact, it was actually fine for all the stitches but the quality improved at a lower setting for some. Anyway, I marked the tension dial setting for each line of stitching on my test fabric for use as a reference.

The machine runs smoothly and sounds fine - no scary noises. I’m a little concerned about the thread holder, however, as it is plastic and seems a little hard to snap into place. If a kid is going to break something, I put my money there. But I think if it is left in place instead taken off when not in use, it should be fine.

Update 1/22/13 - If you're having sewing machine issues, I just discovered that Craftsy has a free online class that may help. I signed up and so should you!

Make an Easy Travel Pillow Case

Pajama pants before . . .

I have a pair of pajama pants that don’t fit, but I love the feel of the fabric – very soft and smooth. I also have a travel pillow with no case. Well, guess what? You can make a really quick and easy travel pillow case from a pajama pants leg!

This is the perfect sewing project for even a very young child as it takes just one seam. That’s right, one seam and it’s done. How’s that for instant gratification?


Pillowcase How-to

Before you cut, stuff the pillow inside the opening of the leg to make sure it fits.





Cut the pant leg.



Then cut the leg off 17 inches from the hem.

 






Sew across the cut edge.




Sew a ¼ inch seam across the cut end. Finish the edge with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears.



Easy one-seam pillowcase finished!



Turn the pillow case right side out and put the pillow inside. It doesn’t get much easier than that!

I realize the pillow case is a little funny-shaped but I don’t care. I could have squared it up but then it would have taken more than one seam, right? And this way, the pillow can’t fall out!



Now I wonder what I'll do with the other pajama leg . . . 

Civil War Quilts Block 2

North Star by Barb Fife

North Star is the second block in the Block of the Week series at Civil War Quilts. Be sure to read the snippet of history and view the cradle quilt made of this block.

As you can see, this block has lots of possibilities. In the cradle quilt, the center square and star points are cut from the same fabric. The example pictured here uses contrasting fabrics. What I see is that the large center square is perfect for fussy-cut focus fabrics, which are always a favorite when sewing and quilting with kids.

A quilting must-have!

North Star requires one center square, four corner squares and four flying geese (try Speed Piecing Method A). And to make matching the seams easy, try using fork pins (image is an amazon affiliate link). You just nest your seams together and the two prongs hold them perfectly in place while stitching. I discovered fork pins a year or so ago and couldn’t live without them now!

Another Block-Piecing Shortcut

Piece with flying geese and half-square triangles.

This is the first block in the free Civil War Quilts Block of the Week and is an old design with many names including “Devils Puzzle,” Winding Blades” and “Flyfoot.” At Civil War Quilts, it’s known as “Catch Me If You Can.” Although pieced from 16 half-square triangles, you can eliminate some of the matching seams and bulk by using four flying geese and eight half-square triangles instead. Do you see it?

Note the four larger orange triangles. If you simply make flying geese units (I recommend Speed Piecing Method A at this link) with the light color on the left and the dark on the right, you would have the same look without a seam down the center. How cool is that. Then you’d need just eight half-square triangles sewn together in pairs and added to the top of each flying geese to make four identical units. Rotate these as needed and sew together to form the block as shown.

What do you think? Can you see other ways to easily make this block? If so, please post a comment and share!

Learn History and Quilting at the Same Time

Civil War Quilts Block of the Week - block #1

Civil War Quilts is a new blog that offers a free Block of the Week in honor of the American Civil War Sesquicentennial. So what is a sesquicentennial, anyway? Well, it means 150 years – either an anniversary, time period of that length, or occurring that often. In this case, it’s the 150th anniversary of the start of the Civil War, which began April 12, 1861.

Throughout 2011, author and quilt historian Barbara Brackman will post a quilt block each week along with a true story about people who lived during the Civil War. Just think – by the end of the year, you could have 52 blocks completed!

The first block is called “Catch Me If You Can” and requires 16 half-square triangle units. There are instructions on the site, but for piecing with children I recommend a different method than the one shown. This kid-friendly technique eliminates sewing along a bias edge and allows for the less-than-perfect ¼-inch seam allowances that often occur when learning to sew.

How to Make Perfect Half-Square Triangle Units

To make perfect half-square triangle units every time, you simply add 1⅛ inch to the finished size desired and then square-up the unit after pressing. The "Catch Me If You Can" block consists of 2 inch finished squares so you cut your fabrics to 3⅛ inches square.   

Cut 3⅛ inches square.


Then pair your fabric squares right sides together, with the lightest one on top, and draw a diagonal line from one corner to the other. I used a black marker so that you could easily see the line but I usually use a pencil.

Draw a diagonal line.

Stitch ¼ inch on both sides of the drawn line and cut. I used black thread so you could see it easily but you'd want to use thread to blend with your fabric.
 

Stitch ¼ inch on both sides of the drawn line.

Cut on the drawn line.

 Press each unit open, with the seam allowance toward the darker fabric.


Press open - you now have two units!


Now square each unit to 2½ inches.
 

Trim your square on two sides.

Finish squaring to 2½ inches.



Untrimmed and trimmed units compared.



Both units squared up.


Now wasn't that easy?

Simplicity Classroom

Simplicity is my all-time favorite pattern company. Although I've used McCalls, Butterick, Vogue and many others, I've always preferred Simplicity - the name basically says it all. Beings I'm such a Simplicity fan, I signed up for an email sewing newsletter and got a fresh issue this morning. Well, you gotta check out the Simplicity Classroom! Following the links, I came upon a page of free sewing projects and a page of free quilt patterns. There are also links on the left of each page to many other pages full of valuable info for those of us sewing and quilting with kids, such as Sewing 101 and Quilting Tools Tutorials. So get a cup of tea and spend a little time seeing what all the Simplicity site has to offer.

Perfect Sewing Machine for Kids?

Sewing at Granny's!

I'm on a quest. I want to find the perfect sewing machine for kids. And I want a REAL machine - not one of those silly kiddie machines that are so cute but useless. I have a couple of granddaughters who are both turning 10 in a few months and I decided I'd like to start a tradition of gifting sewing machines at that age. What about the grandsons? Well, I'll have to think on that one. Should they show an interest in sewing, it might be a good gift for them, as well. But at this point, I don't have any with a 10th birthday coming up so will revisit the idea when necessary. Now, back to the perfect sewing machine . . .

Simple and Durable

The perfect sewing machine for a child has to be simple and durable. At the top of my list is a drop in bobbin. I didn't appreciate how important this feature is until I had to deal with the other kind. I've been sewing since I was small and always had a machine with a drop in bobbin. Even as an adult, correctly inserting the bobbin into the little do-funny and then trying to maneuver the thing into the correct position at an awkward angle is more than I can handle. Sewing should be fun! So why make it difficult? Anyway, the drop in bobbin is a non-negotiable.

Other desirable features include zigzag, convenient reverse and easy threading. To this end, an automatic needle threader would also be nice but not essential - after all, young eyes can see the eye in the needle. In fact, I can still thread a needle manually when I have to and it may actually be good for enhanced eye-hand coordination. So an easy thread path, but not necessarily a needle threader, is in order. On the reverse, I like to sew backwards at the start and end of each seam so want reverse to be easy to get to.

Durability is a no brainer - this is for a child. Gone are the days of bullet-proof machines as the standard. So why don't I just get vintage machines? Been there, done that and they're just too heavy and temperamental for my purposes. I actually gave one of the granddaughters a 1947 Singer in a cabinet but it has proved cumbersome and difficult for her to operate on her own. In fact, she is the reason for this quest - she'll be 10 in March and I want her to have a machine she can use at will without needing assistance.

Should Kids Have Their Own Sewing Machine?

I say absolutely! My daughter had a sewing machine of her own in her room from about age 8 or so. She also had her own fabric stash and sewing supplies and could sew whenever she wanted. Not only is sewing a wholesome activity, it's also a practical skill that too few children learn these days. In addition, having the freedom to create with fabric (and make and correct mistakes) provides valuable experience in math, measuring and other areas. Have I convinced you yet?

So Which Machine is Best?

I've just begun my preliminary research so don't have an answer yet. I'm partial to Singer but am not sold on it as the best option at this point. I've looked at the basic models in the store and read through reviews online and there seems to be quite a bit of dissatisfaction with the reverse lever and durability. I wasn't able to actually test drive any of the models while at the store but will do so once I've narrowed down my choices. At any rate, I'm just starting this quest so am open to suggestions. I'd like to keep the price to $100 or less. Anyway, if you have an opinion on this subject, please chime in - I need all the help I can get!

Fleece Poncho to Make with the Kids

Photo courtesy of //Between the lines//

Between the Lines has a nice tutorial for making a fleece poncho that is a perfect sew-with-a-kid project. Just sew two seams, hem the neck, cut the fringe and you’ve got a warm and stylish garment for winter weather! The measurements are given in cm so I calculated the conversion to inches - the 63cm x 44cm rectangles equal approximately 25x18 inches.

Great Gift Idea, Too!

I’ve actually got a bunch of fleece I bought on sale for kid-quilt backs. Now I’m thinking maybe I should make some ponchos instead. With several grandkids in snowy places and Christmas right around the corner, they might come in real handy. And speaking of gifts, the poncho is the first in a series of DIY gift ideas so check out the others while visiting Between the Lines. And if that isn’t enough, look at all the posts labeled Sewing with Kids.

How to Make Quick and Easy Handprint Potholders

Handprint potholders are a quick and easy project for kids that also make a great gift for Christmas or any other occasion. You can use a layer or two quilt batting or old sweatshirt material as padding and insulation. You can also buy special heat-resistant material such as Insul Bright to use with one layer of batting. To make this project even more enjoyable for kids, pre-cut your fabric pieces so that the little ones can get right to the fun part of sewing.

Tools

• Pencil
• Scissors
• Ruler or measuring tape
• Iron and ironing board
• Pins
• Sewing machine
• Thread
• Hand sewing needle (optional)
• Plastic ring (optional)
• Fabric pens (optional)

Materials for Each Potholder

• Heavy duty fusible web (I prefer Heat n'Bond Ultrahold)
• White or light colored fabric for background
• Contrasting fabric for handprint
• Coordinating print fabric for border and backing
• Quilt batting or sweatshirt material
• Heat-resistant material (optional)

For Each Potholder, Cut

• One piece of fabric large enough for you child's handprint
• One 8 inch square of background fabric
• Two 8 inch by 2½ inch strips of print fabric
• Two 11 inch by 2½ inch strips of print fabric
• One 11 inch square of print fabric
• One or Two 10 inch squares of batting or other insulating material

Make Your Handprint Center Square

1. Place your child’s hand flat with fingers spread on the paper side of the fusible web and trace carefully around the palm and fingers with a pencil. Cut out the handprint in an oval shape staying at least ¼ inch from the drawn line.
2. Place the handprint, paper side up, on the wrong side of the fabric. Fuse in place with your iron, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Cut out the handprint on the drawn line.
3. Peel away the paper from the fabric handprint to expose the adhesive. To make this part easier, drag the point of a pin across the middle of the handprint to score the paper and ten peel the paper away from the center to the edges.
4. Lay your background square right side up on the ironing board. Position the fabric handprint, adhesive side down, in the center of your background square. Fuse the handprint in place with your iron, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Sew Your Potholder Together

1. Right sides together, align a long edge and the ends of an 8 inch border strip with one edge of the handprint square and pin into place. Sew from one end to the other, ½ inch from the edge. Follow the same procedure to attach the other 8 inch border strip to the opposite side of the handprint square.
2. Fold the border strips away from the handprint square and press the seams flat with your iron. Avoid ironing over the fused handprint as too much heat may compromise the adhesive.
3. Right sides together, align a long edge and the ends of an 11 inch border strip with one unfinished edge of the handprint square and pin into place. Sew from one end to the other, ½ inch from the edge. Follow the same procedure to attach the other 11inch long border strip to the remaining unfinished side of the handprint square.
4. Fold the border strips away from the handprint square and press the seams flat. Again, avoid ironing over the fused handprint.
5. Lay the handprint block face down on the right side of the backing fabric square and pin around the edges. Sew around the perimeter ½ inch from the edge, leaving a 5 inch opening on one side.
6. Trim away the fabric within the seam allowance diagonally across the corners to remove excess bulk. Be careful not to cut through the stitching!

Finish Your Potholder

1. Turn the potholder right side out through the opening. Reach inside the potholder and poke your finger into each corner to push the corners out nice and square.
2. Iron the edges of the potholder. Fold the fabric along the opening to the inside, even with the seam, and press a sharp crease on both edges.
3. Put the batting inside the potholder through the opening and smooth it neatly into place. Tuck the batting under one fold of fabric inside the opening. Pin through all layers around the edges of the potholder to keep the batting from shifting.
4. Sew around the perimeter of the potholder, ¼ inch from the edge. Sew around the potholder again, following the seam line between the border and background fabric.
5. Hand stitch a plastic hanging ring to one corner for hanging, if desired.
6. Have your child write his name and the year (and add other embellishments) with fabric pens, if desired.

Simple Homemade Sewing Cards

Sewing cards are not only fun for kids, they also develop eye-hand coordination and teach a practical skill that can be used throughout life. I made these simple sewing cards for my 2½-year-old grandson, choosing basic shapes and primary colors to further enhance his learning. I’ll post a full tutorial when I have more time but here’s the basic instructions.

Tools

• Ruler
• Pencil
• Scissors
• Hole punch
• Small plate (to make the circle)
• Iron and ironing board (fabric covered cards only)

Materials for Each Sewing Card

• A piece of cardboard (I used a Minute Rice box)
• Colorful fabric and heavy-duty iron-on fusible webbing, or paper and glue
• Yarn
• Tape or plastic sewing needle

Instructions

1. Cut the fabric or paper to 8 inches square. If using fabric, fuse iron-on webbing to the back of each square following manufacturer instructions.
2. Fuse the fabric or glue the paper to the cardboard.
3. Draw your shape on the back of the cardboard and cut it out.
4. Punch holes all the way around the shape, about ½ inch in from the edge.
5. Cut a piece of yarn and tie one end to a hole. Wrap the other end with a small piece of tape or tie on a plastic needle.

That’s it - your sewing card is done!

Tips

• Pretest the hole punch on the cardboard to make sure that you can actually punch holes. After punching several sewing cards, I had to turn punch duty over to my hubby.
• Use plain paper on one or both sides of your sewing cards and let the kids draw pictures and color them.

I also made a sewing card for the little guy with a racecar cut from fabric. Which do you suppose will be his favorite?

For additional ideas, check out some other simple sewing projects for kids.